Stinco – Braised Whole Veal Shank, Trieste Style
“Hey Doug, what did you make for supper last night?”
“Stinco.”
“I didn’t ask how it smelled.”
Well, actually I didn’t make Stinco last night. I was unable to obtain the main ingredient – two whole veal shanks from the hind leg. I had to make a major modification and go with two pieces of veal shank, similar to the previous Ossobuco recipes, but as thick as I could find. I had to drive into Ottawa, well actually a suburb called Bells Corners, to obtain even those – at an excellent butcher shop called The Butchery.
Ingredients below include white wine, butter, vegetable oil, salt, pepper, anchovies, onion and garlic. The onion and garlic are from my garden. I am preparing my garden for winter, harvesting some vegetables that do well left in the garden until October – potatoes, onions, carrots, beets. I cooked some small beets as a veg to go with the veal.
I just planted my 2011 crop of garlic a couple of days ago. Garlic is very easy to grow. Plant in the fall, cover with a mulch, arrange the mulch between the rows in the spring to control the weeds, harvest in August, hang to dry in the shed, repeat in October.
Preparing this recipe is very easy – everything goes into one pot – thick-bottomed according to the instructions – and slowly cooks for a long time – two hours for the whole shank recipe, add a bit of water to the pot juices, boil away & pour the pot juices over the veal.
To repeat, the final result is NOT the Stinco recipe in Marcella’s book. If I had been able to obtain the whole shanks I would have done so.
What I liked about this recipe:
1. Well, like many other recipes I’ve attempted, this was a novel experience for me – never cooked veal shank before.
2. Single pan recipe – a big check mark in my book.
3. Small list of ingredients.
4. Great aroma as it is cooking.
5. Excellent result.
6. Found an excellent butcher shop. I’ll add The Butchery to my rounds when I go into Ottawa. I drive into the city every two weeks.
What I didn’t like about this recipe:
1. The difficulty in obtaining the main ingredient was initially frustrating. Once I decided to go with the two pieces instead of a whole shank, my attitude improved.
2. Unfortunate name, don’t you think?
Would I make it again?
Yes. It was excellent. Also, I am going to try the Ossobuco recipes in the book.
Stinco is Italian for an anatomical part. Can’t do anything about language. Nearly identical words can have startlingly different meanings: A preservative in English is what you add to foods to keep them from spoiling, preservativo is Italian for condom.
I had difficulty in Sarasota getting the whole shank until I became friends with Chef Al Massa of our upscale restaurant, Michael’s On East. He now gets me all the shanks I want, and they are gorgeous. Perhaps there is a similar source in Ottawa.
Deborah should love it. There is a whole long shank filled with marrow.
Marcella, I so love the comments you are posting on our blog entries. It’s like you are continuing Amarcord with new chapters.
Is there a different Italian word for preservative as we understand it in English? Or is there a lack of a word which would be very telling about the Italian approach to fresh/local food sourcing.
Conservante is the Italian equivalent of the English preservative, Deborah. I can imagine the giggles if an English-speaking traveler in Italy asks her grocer if there are preservativi in the item she is buying.
Marcella,
We have been able to get the stinco from Chop Shop and we just picked up an order last night for this weekend’s dinner party. Since having it at your home with Victor Deborah has made it several times, including the Jerusalem artichokes which were the perfect accompaniment, and with great success.
Michael and Deborah Imparato