Orecchiette
Today, I write my blog entry with very mixed feelings. My recipe, Orecchiette, which I’ll talk about in a minute, was delicious. The sad part is this is the last pasta in the chapter. We will tomorrow be moving on to Risotto.
I have loved this pasta chapter. Every recipe I have made I have really enjoyed. Some of the dishes really suprised me, and others turned out exactly as I imagined them tasting. There have been very simple and quick pastas, and others that have been quite time consuming. But whether quick or not, I have enjoyed every single one.
Today’s pasta is Orecchiette. Marcella explains that this recipe comes from the Apulia region, which is the region that extends over the heel and half of the instep of the boot-shaped Italian peninsula. This region has a tradition of making home-made pasta. But the pasta they make is different than that you find in the Emilia-Romagna region. Here, the pasta is made with water instead of eggs, and the flour is mostly of a hard-wheat variety. This means the dough will be chewier and firmer. To match well with this more rustic pasta, they use stong-flavored sauces.
Orecchiette is the most well-known pasta from this region, and it means “little ears”. This is a hand-shaped dough.
The dough is made of a combination of semolina and all-purpose flour. Add salt and warm water, and that’s it. The dough is mixed, then kneaded for a full 8 minutes. I found it extremely important to be sure and knead for the full time. I even kneaded for a little longer. It took that much time for the dough to obtain the correct texture. The dough then rests a short while. When you’re ready to form your shapes, you pull off a piece of dough about the size of a lemon. You then roll that into a sausage-shaped roll, about 1/2″ thick. You slice off very thin pieces, place the piece in the cupped palm of one hand, and with the other hand you press and twist your thumb, making a shape that resembles a little ear, or more descriptive, a small mushroom cap. The edges are thicker than the middle. You continue to form these little ears, and here’s where it gets time-consuming. The recipe made about 330 little ears. That took some time to make them all, and I was quite unhappy that my back was giving me problems that day.
Marcella says the best sauce for this pasta is the Brocolli and Anchovy Sauce. That’s what I made. I loved the sauce-very interesting, complex flavor with the anchovy. But what I really loved was the pasta. Chewy, firm, wonderful texture. I will most definately be making this dough again. I will be asking Marcella for her input. When I don’t have time to form all of those ears, I would like to put this dough through my pasta machine. Would this be an appropriate dough for a thick-cut noodle like tagliatelle?
If you’re at all interested in learning more about the art of making pasta, buy this book. Marcella does a wonderful job of explaining all aspects-the doughs, the shapes, what sauce to pair with what pasta, etc.
It’s now time to move on to the next chaper-Risotto!
Oh Cindy, they look like the pasta my aunts used to make when I was a child. My mom’s family was from Gioia del Colle in Puglia. They made many interesting sauces with veggies that I wouldn’t eat when I was little, but loved the pasta with a hearty meat sauce.
They are beautiful, and bring back many happy memories.
Palma-Thanks. This was a time-consuming, but fun one to make. I love that chewy pasta! Don’t you just love how food can bring back memories? I’m glad this one brought happy memories to you.
Cindy, it looks like you did a beautiful job, both with the pasta and the sauce!
Did you use anchovies packed in salt? I find their flavor to be superior to those packed in oil.
Cindy, I am sad that the pasta chapter is over too – each recipe has seemed wonderful in its own way.
But I do love risotto too . . .
Frankly, Cindy, when I wrote the directions for making orecchiette I wondered if anyone would ever take the trouble to do it. You can buy decent orecchiette from such makers as De Cecco and Benedetto Cavalieri, and I wouldn’t be surprised if most home cooks in Puglia aren’t doing that. But the home made are so much better and by now I have learned that if anyone is going to go ahead and do it it’s going to be you. It’s too bad that you live at the most distant corner of the States from me, I would have liked to have met you.
Yes, you can put that dough through your pasta machine, but it must be thinned out considerably before it goes through the cutters, and I’d advise a narrower cut like tagliolini or tonnarelli. Is there no recipe for tonnarelli in this section? It’s a specialty of Abruzzo and Lazio, and a terrifically satisfying noodle shape.
Cindy, I left a comment very early this morning, but I don’t know what happened to it. I must comment, because such a stellar effort deserves a comment from your followers!
Both your pasta and sauce look spectacular! We make this sauce a lot, we do not tire of it. Did you use anchovies packed in salt or oil? We find the imported anchovies packed in salt to be of superior flavor to those packed in oil.
Brava!
Susie-your comment came through this morning, I just have been too busy today to go in and approve it. Thanks for the comments. I have never been able to find anchovies packed in salt here. These were packed in oil in glass jars. I’ll have to add that to my list of things to bring home from Italy.
Marcella- this pasta did take a while to make, but I cannot imagine getting that same wonderful chewy texture from a dried pasta. I was having a lot of back pain the day I made them, so that probably made it seem even longer than it actually was. I will definately make this dough and try it in the pasta machine. I’ll have to look up tonnarelli in the book and read what it says. I do live a ways away from you, don’t I? I would love to meet you also. Maybe I’ll be able to make a trip to Florida one day.
Cindy, we have used factory made pasta for this many times with wonderful results, although there is nothing like home made, no?
I would be very happy to send you, as a gift, a tin of salt-packed anchovies. I get a great discount at our local import shop. I believe I still have your address from when I sent you the Healdsburg article. If I don’t , I will PM you through Slow Travel.
I hope your back feels better very soon!
Susie-That would be so very sweet of you. I’ve never used the salt-packed ones. Let me know if you don’t still have my address. Thank you again-I really appreciate such a sweet gesture.
Beautiful orecchiette! It looks like a job to be attempted while sitting down. I can see why so many people would rather buy them but imagine what they are missing – how sad!